Il Mulino New York

For my birthday, Zack took me out to Il Mulino New York, which opened around nine months ago right near our apartment in the historic Biggs Mansion. I was really excited to go since I would pass by it every day to go the grocery store, pharmacy, or train station.

We got dressed up and fit right in with the crowd. The lighting is dim and we were escorted to the room immediately to the right after entering the restaurant. The decor was very dramatic with the floor-to-ceiling dark drapery and chandelier in the middle of the room. As soon as we sat down, we were bombarded with a fleet of waiters in tuxedos. The first came to explain the food already on our table, which included a plate of soprasetta salami slices and a plate of spicy sauteed eggplant. A few more waiters came by (one with a whole half wedge of Parmigiano Reggiano that carved out a chunk for each of us, another with bruschetta and mussels, and yet another to show off some fresh langoustines). Finally, another waiter came with the menus. Before he handed them to us, he breaks out into a five-minute long oration of the specials, most of which was incomprehensible.

After the first exhausting fifteen minutes, things calmed down and we were able to take a moment to look at the menu. We ordered some wine by the glass, half orders of pasta, and entrees. Zack ordered seafood pasta and grilled steak. I ordered porcini-filled ravioli with champagne cream sauce and black truffle paste. The dish tasted even richer and more luxurious than it sounded. After seeing the langoustines, I made up my mind to get them for the main course. They give you a choice between having them prepared in or out of the shell. I had them in the shell. It was definitely fresh but was overpowered by the thin but greasy batter that covered them. Also, it was served with an enormous mound of garlic spinach that I barely touched. I thought the price wasn't too bad for the half portion of the pasta at around $18 but the entree was outrageous at around $42 for four langoustines. For dessert, we ordered a medley of "mini" desserts including tiramisu, ricotta cheese cake, and flourless chocolate cake. I really liked the cheesecake and the tiramisu was good too.

The service and prices were too over the top with not enough attention paid to the preparation of the food itself. I realized that you're paying for the atmosphere and service. While I did enjoy the experience of dining there, I would rather spend that kind of money elsewhere.

Il Mulino New York
1150 N Dearborn
Chicago, IL 60610
(312) 440-8888